How to insulate cold water inlet into a house. How to carry out water with your own hands

Water supply to a house is an objective condition for the normal living of its residents. SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Rate of water consumption by consumers” regulates water consumption in the range from 80 to 230 liters. per day per resident. Consumption depends on the availability of centralized water supply, sewerage, bath or shower, the presence of a water heating column and other factors.

In multi-storey and communal buildings this issue is resolved by connecting to the central water supply system. For a private country house or cottage, you have to provide your own water supply.

Of course, once you can bring water from an external source in the amount of needs it will not be difficult. But how to provide water to a family for a long time?

This article will help solve this problem, in which the types of water supply, diagrams, systems and methods of their construction are structured in detail. The nuances of doing the main types of work with your own hands are also indicated.

Types and methods of water supply to a private home

From the perspective of the dependence of the water supply source on external factors, two fundamentally different types of water delivery to the user can be distinguished:

Centralized water supply at home

In essence, the same autonomous, but within the region. In this case, the user does not need to worry about arranging a source of water. All you need to do is connect (cut into) the central water main.

Connecting the house to the central water supply

All actions come down to the step-by-step implementation of a number of requirements, including:

• contacting the regional utility organization MPUVKH KP "Vodokanal" (Municipal Enterprise "Water Supply and Sewerage Management"), which controls the central main;

• obtaining technical characteristics of the insert. The document contains data on the location of connection of the user's pipe system to the main line and its depth. In addition, the diameter of the main pipes is indicated there and, accordingly, instructions for choosing home pipe distribution. The water pressure indicator (guaranteed water pressure) is also indicated here;

• receive an estimate for connection, which is developed by a utility or contractor;

• control the execution of work. Which are also usually performed by UPKH;

• perform system testing.

Advantages of central water supply: convenience, simplicity.

Disadvantages: fluctuations in water pressure, questionable quality of incoming water, dependence on central supplies, high cost of water.

Autonomous water supply at home

You can independently provide water supply to your dacha, private or country house using an autonomous water supply. Essentially this is A complex approach, which includes activities for the installation of a water supply system, starting from providing a source of water supply, ending with its discharge to the sewer.

An autonomous water supply system can be presented in the form of two component subsystems:

• water delivery: imported, groundwater, from an open source;

• supply to points of consumption: gravity, using a pump, with the installation of a pumping station.

Therefore, in a generalized form, two water supply schemes can be distinguished: gravity (storage container with water) and automatic water supply.

Using a container (water tank)

The essence of the autonomous water supply scheme for a house is that water is supplied to the tank using a pump or poured manually.

Water flows to the user by gravity. After all the water in the tank has been used, it is filled again to the maximum possible level.

This method is supported by its simplicity; it is suitable if water is needed from time to time. For example, in a country house that is not visited often or in a utility room.

This water supply arrangement, despite its simplicity and low cost, is too primitive, inconvenient and, moreover, creates a significant weight on the interfloor (attic) floor. As a result, the system has not found widespread use and is more suitable as a temporary option.

Using an automatic water supply system

This diagram demonstrates the functioning of a fully autonomous water supply system for a private home. Water is supplied to the system and to the user using a system of components.

This is what we will talk about in more detail.

You can implement a completely autonomous water supply for a private home on your own by implementing one of the schemes. There are several device options to choose from:

1. Water from open sources

These can be surface sources: ponds, rivers, lakes. In some cases, such sources may be water purification systems. But in our country they are not yet widespread.

Important! Water from most open sources is not suitable for consumption. It can only be used for irrigation or other technical needs.

Obtaining water from an open source requires the creation of sanitary protection of water intake sites and is regulated by the provisions of SanPiN 2.1.4.027-9 “Zones of sanitary protection of water supply sources and drinking water pipelines.”

2. Water from underground sources: pools and aquifers

This water is, in most cases, suitable for consumption.

How to install water in a private house with your own hands

A step-by-step guide to choosing and installing water supply in a country cottage or country house from A to Z

The house water supply scheme consists of the following elements:

1. water source;
2. pipe system;
3. pump, hydraulic accumulator, automation relay;
4. filters;
5. fittings, valves, check valves and plumbing fixtures;
6. water heating equipment (for hot water supply);
7. sewerage

Element 1. Water source

When starting to ensure an autonomous water supply, you should determine the source of water supply and equip it.

Among the subtypes of autonomous water supply with an underground source of water supply are:

1.1 ordinary well;

1.2 Abyssinian well;

1.3 well “for sand”;

1.4 artesian well.

The final choice will depend on the type and characteristics of the soil, the depth of the water, and the productivity of the water vein.

1.1 Regular well

A traditional well is preferred when the water vein is located at a depth of 4-15 m. These are the so-called interstratal water sources. In addition to the depth of occurrence, it is important to determine the productivity of the vein. The incoming water must be sufficient to meet the needs of the family and/or household. Using a well, you can ensure a water supply of 500 liters/day.

The undoubted advantages of the well are:

• independence from electricity supplies. This way, in the event of a power outage, water can be collected using a bucket;
• long service life (up to 50 years), which has been tested in practice;
• low cost of work;
• simplicity of the device.

It should be noted that due to the shallow depth of water intake, it may be of poor quality. This is due to the likelihood of groundwater entering the well. The well is also characterized by changes in water level.

Important! When setting up a well, you need to position it correctly in terms of distance from above-ground buildings. It should not be located close to buildings, the optimal distance is 5 m (this will prevent erosion of the foundation of the building). In this case, the distance to direct sources of pollution (gutter, toilet, other sources) should be at least 50 m.

To dig a well you need to perform a number of steps:

• take a water sample;

Important! Before installing a well on your property, try your neighbors’ water, or better yet, have it analyzed. It may happen that the water will be unfit for consumption and all efforts will be in vain.

• obtain a conclusion about the quality of the soil and the depth of the aquifer. In practice, wells are often dug “by eye”;

• determine the place to dig a well. To do this, you can involve specialists and use special devices - indicator frames. And you can watch the dew for several months. The greatest accumulation of dew in a certain place indicates the proximity of water;

• choose a building material for finishing the walls of the well (shaft). The following materials are most often used for these purposes:

Reinforced concrete rings, which are manufactured in factories or cast independently. Their diameter is 1-1.5 m.p., and the estimated service life is up to 50 years. The obvious advantage of using rings is the possibility of deepening up to 20 m, high speed and greater safety of work. In addition, rings are installed as work progresses;

Small-piece materials: brick, rubble stone. This material is only suitable for wells with a depth of no more than 3-4 m. Its use significantly increases the labor intensity of the work;

Treated logs. For finishing shaft wells, logs made of wood that are resistant to exposure to high humidity are suitable. These include oak, larch, and pine. The diameter of the logs must be at least 120 mm.

• dig a well shaft. To reduce the cost of work, this is usually done manually. You can determine the dimensions of the shaft in this way: measure the diameter of the concrete circles, measure their thickness and add 10-15 cm to the backfill. Then, with a circle diameter of 1 m and a thickness of 10 cm, the diameter of the shaft will be 1.4 m. If you plan to use another material, for example, brick, then it is enough to indicate the desired diameter of the well and add two thicknesses of material to it;

• finish the well - internal and external.

1.2 Abyssinian well

Water supply to a country house from an Abyssinian well or needle well is the easiest way to get water at minimal cost. To do this, just follow a number of steps:

• check the water;
• choose a place for a well;
• hammer a needle hole;
• install a check valve and pump (manual or automatic).

The reason for the increased popularity of wells is the purity of the incoming water, tightness, ease of drilling, the ability to connect a pump, and a long service life (up to 30 years), a significant amount of incoming water - more than 1000 l/day. Among the disadvantages are the shallow driving depth and dependence on the composition of the soil.

1.3 Sand well

In this case, water also comes from interstratal sources. A sand well makes it possible to obtain cleaner water, since the aquifers are located after the loam, which filters the water.

Thus, the well is used if the depth of the aquifer reaches 40 m.p.

The well has a shorter service life (up to 10 years) and can produce up to 50 cubic meters. water per day. The well is distinguished by ease of drilling and less soil excavation.

A detailed description of how to make a well with graphical visualization is presented in the video

1.4 Artesian well

Allows the use of water from significant depths. The depth of the well reaches 150 m, which allows you to obtain high quality water. The unlimited supply of water is also an argument in favor of an artesian well. At the same time, the service life of the well increases compared to previous version up to 50 years old.

The method of drilling an artesian well is identical to the previous one. The only difference is that a mechanical drilling method is used: auger, rotary, core or percussion-rope. The well design is shown in the diagram.

Important! By law, artesian water is a strategic reserve of the state. Therefore, there is a need to register an artesian well.

Element 2. Pipes for water supply

Water supply cannot be organized without installing an extensive system of pipes, both external and internal, and a water tank.

Galvanized, polyethylene, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used for wiring.

Important! Using plastic pipes will prevent rust and leakage. They are also more convenient to give the desired shape. The estimated service life of a polypropylene pipe is 50 years.

External pipes are laid in the ground.

Important! The depth of pipe laying depends on the level of soil freezing (indicated in SNiPs; for central Russia the depth is about 1.5 m). The pipes are located below this value. In this case, the system is not in danger of freezing and, as a result, deformation.

Advice. To prevent water from stagnating in the pipe, it must be laid at an angle to the house.

Next, one end of the pipe is inserted into the house (for this, a hole is left in the foundation into which a steel pipe is placed. It will prevent deformation of the water supply pipe if the house shrinks). The second one is lowered into the well.

Element 3. Pump or pumping station for water supply

The pump can be installed in the house (basement or utility room)

Or it can be installed in a caisson or pit (directly above the well). The diagram shows the installation in a caisson submersible pump and superficial.

To get a caisson you need to dig a hole 2-3 m deep. Lay a sand-crushed stone cushion on the bottom and fill it with concrete. It is convenient to lay the walls with bricks. A pump is installed in the caisson, and the contour of the caisson is filled with concrete (layer about 0.4 m).

There are two types of pumps:

Submersible pumps. They plunge into water (well, borehole) and raise the water. For convenience, such pumps are equipped with automation, which allows you to pump water from your home.

Surface pumps. They are pumping stations equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and a relay.

The hydraulic accumulator performs the functions of a water tower.

Relay - regulates the pressure of the pumping station.

Operating principle of a surface pump

The principle of operation is as follows: the pump supplies water to the accumulator, which accumulates it. After the water is turned on in the house, the pressure in the system decreases. After reaching a critical level of 2.2 bar, the relay turns on, which in turn turns on the pump. The pump supplies water to the accumulator until the pressure is restored to 3 bar. After this, the relay turns off the pump.

You can select a pump based on the following data:

• depth of water (bottom of a well or borehole);
• height of water in the source shaft;
• height of the water point;
• volume of water consumed (m3).

The water intake pipe of the pump is lowered into the source. To avoid clogging of the pipe, filters are installed on its edge.

Important! The pipe is installed at a distance of 20-40 cm from the bottom (gravel cushion). The distance is determined by the height of the water at the source.

Advice. To prevent the pipe in a traditional well from moving, it must be secured to a special pin located at the bottom.

Element 4. Filters for the water supply system

Cleaning the water entering the pipe system is an important aspect of the water supply at home. Two types of filters are used for cleaning:

The first is installed on the edge of the pipe placed in the well. It purifies water from mechanical impurities;

The second is directly in the house and can be a complex multi-stage filter system. Water purification diagram in the figure.

Item 5. Fittings, valves and plumbing

These are the elements that are necessary for a hermetically sealed connection of pipes with each other and with other devices.

Important! To prevent system rupture and water leakage, try to use only high-quality shut-off valves.

Plumbing fixtures include: taps, waste tanks, water seals (siphons). You shouldn't skimp on their quality either.

Element 6. Water heating equipment

Will be needed if there is a need for hot water supply, i.e. almost always.

Important! To arrange hot water supply, it is necessary to provide a separate outlet to the heating device.

In this case, there are several options for choosing heating equipment:

• double-circuit boiler. It will simultaneously heat water for heating and domestic needs;

• single-circuit boiler. Designed exclusively for heating water for user needs. A boiler is required for such a boiler. In this case, the boiler can be storage or flow-through. In the first case, it becomes possible to heat a large volume of water;

• electric storage water heater, allowing to satisfy the need for hot water of a significant number of users;

• several instantaneous water heaters. They will heat water for each consumer individually. This system allows for more efficient use of electricity for heating water.

Element 7. Sewerage

Once the location for draining the used water has been determined, the process of arranging the water supply can be considered complete.

Water drainage is an essential component and the more water is consumed, the more it needs to be drained. This means we need to approach this stage responsibly. There are also two options here:

• crash into the central sewer;

• equip your own autonomous sewerage system. A septic tank or sedimentation tank is designed to collect water. Concrete and plastic septic tanks are shown in the photo. And their volume and quantity (total volume) depends on the amount of water consumed.

The video explains the rules for building a septic tank for a country house.

The water supply process from design to construction is shown in the video

Conclusion

As you can see, there are different water supply schemes for a private home, from simple to complex; accordingly, some will be cheaper, while others will be more expensive. Also, the cost of water supply is affected by the structural soundness, i.e. you will need a water supply device that operates periodically (temporarily) or year-round - in winter and summer. In any case, the implementation of each system is possible with your own hands, but requires knowledge and skills.

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

Disadvantage serial connection When laying out a water supply system, there is a possibility of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used at the same time.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

• "Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap you need to wait certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
• Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

• pumping unit for a well or borehole,
• nipple (adapter),
• preventing reverse,
• pipeline,
• filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
• shut-off valves,
• five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pipes).

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

• for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
• for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
• in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Plumbing a house from

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

• Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
• Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors at.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, pressure switch and, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

• preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about),
• fine cleaning,
• water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

• Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
• A deep cleaning filter is connected;
• Next comes a tee, from which the water supply pipes in a private house are divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which the water will go to a boiler or another for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing water pipes in a private house choosing the right one with your own hands will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

• for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
• for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
• For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

• 25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
• 32 mm for 50 l,
• 38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes from various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

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In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

• Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
• Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get the maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall; there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.
• If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
• The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

• Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
• All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
• Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
• A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.

It would seem that it could be easier to install a water pipe into a private house. But, as practice shows, this seemingly simple process is associated with some requirements relating not only to the laying of pipes with the installation of a water meter, but also to their insulation and insulation. In addition, the water supply to the house from the water supply system, or rather the point of entry, can be located very low. This means that you will have to lay pipework through the foundation into the basement, and maybe even under it. Therefore, even at the stage of laying the foundation, a pipe with a larger diameter than the diameter of the pipe of the future water supply is laid in its structure.

Laying pipes through the foundation

Let's start with the fact that the water supply system of a private house can be connected to a central water supply or can be organized as an autonomous one the local network, in which water will be drawn from a well or borehole. Therefore, the installation process of a water pipe (home) will be carried out differently in different cases.

Connection to the central water supply

Firstly, you will not be able to connect to the central water supply without permission from the water supply organization. Therefore, you will have to submit an application, to which a response will be given in the form of technical conditions. They must indicate: the connection point, the depth of the water pipe itself, the water pressure inside the water supply route.

Secondly, you need to make the connection itself correctly. To do this, at the connection point specified in the specifications, you need to dig a pit and build a well. In this case, the depth of the future well should be below the level of the central water supply pipe. And the width is such that a person who will do the installation work can fit inside the well.

Connection to the central water supply

Thirdly, you will need to make a hole in the water pipe. Therefore, it is necessary to cut off a section of the water supply itself from the water supply. Usually for this purpose there are special wells constructed by the water supply organization, where valves are installed. They will need to be closed. There are two valves, they are located on different sides of the connection point.

If the central water supply pipe is a cast iron product, then after drilling the hole it is necessary to install a special plastic clamp on it, in which a hole is also made, and a pipe with a thread at the free end is welded to it. A valve or valve is immediately screwed onto it. Instead of a threaded pipe, you can install a flanged one. In this case, the shut-off valves will be attached to the pipeline using flanges through rubber or paranitic gaskets. By the way, it is necessary to place a rubber gasket under the clamp, which will ensure the tightness of the joint.

If the central water supply pipe is a steel product, then first of all, after drilling the hole, it is necessary to drain the water from the pipeline. After which the pipe with thread or flange is welded to the main pipe. Next, as in the first case, a valve or valve is installed. But you can not use welding, but install a clamp.

Home water meter

Water meter installation

Now comes a very important point. It concerns the installation of a water meter. In principle, there are no strict requirements for the location of its installation. The most important thing is that it is a room that is insulated and accessible to free passage. Therefore, many owners of private houses install these devices in the basements. Today, water supply organizations require that water meters be installed in the very wells where the connection was made. This is due to the fact that in this way the problem of unauthorized connection is solved, bypassing the water meter.

So, the next stage of installing a central water supply for a private house is laying pipes from the well to the foundation of the building. There is nothing complicated here.

• A trench is dug to a depth of 0.5 m. It is better if it is straight or with minimal branches or turns. If the pipeline will pass under the road, then it is better to deepen the trenches and fill them with sand, and lay the pipe in a pipe of larger diameter.
• Pipe laying is in progress.
• They are insulated.
• Connect to the meter pipe on one side.
• Pass the pipe through the hole in the foundation.
• The external water supply circuit is connected to the internal wiring.

Water supply entry point into the house through the foundation

That's it, water has been introduced into the house from the (central) water supply system. Now all that remains is to check the route for leaks and proper operation of the meter. Therefore, a shut-off valve or gate valve opens in the well. You need to open it carefully, slowly. One of the consumers opens, which will show the operation of the water meter.

Attention! It should be noted that a home water supply connected to the central water supply (meets SanPiN) is a guarantee of clean water. But even in such networks, a coarse filter is now installed in front of the water meter to extend the life of the meter.

Local autonomous water supply network

If a central water supply is just a dream in a country village, then water supply to a private house can be organized using a well or borehole as a water intake source. True, for this you will have to dig up or drill these structures, respectively.

What is the difference between local water supply and centralized water supply? If a well is used in the water supply system, then no permits are required for this. But for a well such permission will have to be obtained from Rospotrebnadzor. The thing is that groundwater is the property of the state and is classified as a state resource, so wells must be registered.

Local water supply

What is the input of water from these two hydraulic structures? This is again a pipe system that connects the internal water supply to the water source. In this case, the water intake itself is carried out only with the help of pumps, which are installed either inside the well and well, or on the surface. Accordingly, either submersible (well) pumps or surface pumps are used for this.

But a meter is not installed in such water supply networks, because water, in fact, becomes a free resource. You will only have to pay for the electricity that powers the pump.

Now, as for the route itself and the introduction of the pipe into the house. In principle, all the requirements regarding the laying of pipes are exactly the same as in the case of connecting to a central water supply. The only difference is the presence of a pumping unit and the absence of a water meter. The pipeline itself is laid from the hydraulic structure to the foundation of the house, in which, during the process of laying it, a channel in the form of a pipe is constructed. Through it, entry into the house is made.

But already inside, usually a basement, the entire water supply system is organized, which includes a pump, if it is surface-mounted, a storage tank, a filter unit and shut-off valves.

Well inside the house

Attention! There are technologies for organizing water supply in a private house, when a well or borehole is built inside the building. This, first of all, reduces the length of the water supply network, and secondly, there is no system for introducing pipes into the house. That is, the entire water supply installation is located inside the building.

And one more question that needs to be covered is how to bring water into the house from the water pump. Let's start with the fact that the column is usually installed either on a central water supply pipe or on a shallow well. In the first case, the hydraulic structure is installed in such a way that it can supply water to houses and other objects within a radius of 100 m. This is a public water intake structure, which is usually organized at road intersections in a village or city. So no one will allow him to install water supply into the house. As mentioned above, this is a public building.

As for the installed column on a well drilled in a suburban area, there are no problems with laying pipes from it into the house. True, you will have to consider several options for connecting the column to a water pipe. For example, the photo below shows a column whose design has a drain pipe with a diameter of 15 mm. You can connect a pipe for your home water supply to it. Its installation is done in exactly the same way as in the first two cases. The only thing you need to pay attention to is the insulation of the pipeline located on the surface.

Sectional column

Plus, a well with a column has a small flow rate, and you can add manual pumping of water, which already complicates its supply to the house. Therefore, it is mandatory to install a storage tank in the supply system. It is in it that the necessary supply of water for domestic needs and drinking will be produced.

Summarizing the topic, of course, we must pay tribute to the central water supply, from which it is best to supply water to the house. Firstly, it is clean water that meets all sanitary standards. Secondly, the minimum cost of organizing home plumbing. But if this is not possible, then wells or wells are used. It’s better not to connect it to the column.

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Not all private households have running water. Sometimes there is no centralized water supply even down the street. So residents in such settlements use either common wells or wells located in their yard. But we live in a time when running water and sewerage in the home is not a luxury, but a necessity. Thanks to running water in your home, you no longer need to waste time getting water. It can be used for other equally important activities.

Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to supply water to a private house and correctly install water supply through it. Let's look at these questions step by step.

Action plan

1. Determine the source of water intake (where water will need to be supplied from: well, borehole, centralized water supply)
2. Determine what material will be used to enter the water supply system into a private house and distribute the water supply inside the house
3. Determine the locations of water consumers (washbasin, washing machine, bathroom, toilet, etc.)
4. Draw a diagram of the future water pipeline
5. Determine your financial resources (this determines who will do the work and what material the water supply will be made from).

These steps will be enough to bring water into the house without complicating the process.

Source of water intake

The water source can be centralized water supply, well, borehole, lake or river. You can use several sources, for example, a well and a centralized water supply. But now we will discuss only the first three.

Centralized water supply

To introduce water into a house from a centralized water supply, you first need to coordinate the connection issues with the authorities that are responsible for this water supply. Then we make the connection using a clamp of the appropriate diameter.

It is better to make an inspection well at the connection point. This way it will be possible to inspect and audit the connection point. We mount it in the clamp emergency shut-off valve, preferably with a removable connection so that it can be easily replaced in case of failure. Well, then we lay the pipe and connect it to the emergency valve.

If the water source is a well or borehole

In both cases, pumping equipment is needed. If the depth of the well is small, then you can use a pumping station. And if the depth exceeds the technical characteristics of pumping stations, then, just like for a well, it is better to use submersible pumps.

The pumping station is usually equipped with an electric motor with a pump attached to it, a hydraulic accumulator (also known as a receiver), a pressure gauge, and mechanical automatic switching on of the electric pump.

For submersible pumps, the hydraulic accumulator, automation and pressure gauge must be installed independently.

Which material to choose for input

Exists several pipe options for organizing water supply in the house, but it is the polypropylene pipe that has proven itself well. The service life is designed for fifty years, it does not oxidize, withstands pressure loads, and is easy to install.

Such a pipe is inferior in technical specifications perhaps a copper pipe, but the price compensates for this drawback.

It is important to pay attention to the diameter of the input pipe. This determines how comfortable you will be when using your water supply system.

It is better to use a pipe for input diameter 32 millimeters. It is slightly more expensive than a 25 mm pipe, but it will have a good supply of throughput, and this will play an important role in the future when the need arises to add consumption points. Also, it is better to install a pipe that can withstand a pressure of 10 atmospheres.

How to enter water

First you need to determine the place where you will bring the pipe into the house. Then you dig a trench from the house to the location of the water source. The depth of the trench directly depends on the area in which you live. The more the soil freezes during winter frosts, the deeper the trench should be. Sometimes, to make the trench depth smaller, the pipe is insulated. Each layer of such insulation reduces the depth of the trench by 20 centimeters.

How to connect to the central water supply was described above. Well, how to bring water into the house from a well? A pumping station, even the most powerful, may not always be enough. It all depends on the distance of the well from the house. Therefore, not far from it make a caisson and a pumping station is installed in it.

A suction pipe is lowered into the well at the level of the trench. Then the pipe is laid horizontally to the caisson, and there it is connected to the pumping station. Afterwards the pipe is laid to the house.

Unlike a well, drawing water from a well does not require making a caisson, since the well can be located both under the house building and outside it. But in any case, the hydraulic accumulator and everything else can be mounted either in the basement or next to the water inlet. A water supply pipe from a well can be routed in the same way as water is routed from a well.

In all cases, the polypropylene pipe should be covered with a small layer of sand before covering it with soil dug out of the trench. This will prevent damage to the pipe when backfilling with soil.

At the beginning of the work, it is necessary to make a diagram of the location of your communications throughout the territory.

After we figured it out, how to get water into the house, let's talk about what possibilities there are for distributing water supply around the house.

Regardless of where your water is supplied from, either from a well or a well, or from a central water supply system, there must be an emergency shut-off valve at the inlet. After it, a water consumption meter is installed, if you are connected to a centralized water supply.

Then the input from the well or well is connected if you have a combined water connection. This is followed by the release of cold water for irrigation or for household needs. Next, the filter block is installed. What and how many of them there will be is determined depending on water quality.

After the filter block, a hydraulic accumulator and automatic activation of the well pump are installed. This is the primary circuit, installed immediately after the water is introduced. Now it’s time to choose one scheme from several options for laying out the water supply in a private house.

A private house, unlike an apartment, has a greater range of possibilities regarding the plumbing inside it. Here you can use a series connection of water consumers. It is also called tee. Or you can use a collector circuit for connecting consumers. Let's look at these two schemes.

Serial connection

This circuit includes serial connection of consumers. The washstand, shower, toilet, as well as everything in the kitchen are connected sequentially, one after the other. The advantage is that a small amount of pipe is needed. But there is also disadvantage of this system.

In the case of simultaneous use of consumers, the pressure at distant points of consumption drops. This is especially noticeable when the shower is running: it is very difficult to regulate the water temperature. This is where the inconvenience of this scheme manifests itself. This system is more suitable for a family with a small number of people.

Collector connection

This scheme for connecting consumers requires more pipe, which means it increases the cost of the water supply project. The essence of this system is that after the primary circuit, collectors for cold and hot water are installed at the inlet, and pipes are laid from them to each individual consumer.

This system allows you to simultaneously use water in different places of consumption: in the kitchen, in the shower, and so on. It follows from this that such a scheme is better for comfortable use and suitable for any family.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of the project, but at the same time, get maximum comfort, these two systems are combined. This works well too.

Pipe for internal water supply

There are several options: copper, polypropylene, metal-plastic and steel. Let's look at the main characteristics.

The pipe must be selected depending on your financial capabilities, as well as the technical parameters of the circuits that you use at home. Especially important use quality materials in responsible places for water supply distribution.

In the private sector, located within the city, it is usually possible to install a water supply from a centralized network. However, in populated areas where initially there is no main pipeline, it is necessary to equip autonomous systems from hydraulic structures in the areas. However, sometimes such a need arises when accessing the central network. This happens if large areas need to be watered in the summer, and the water bills are too high. In such cases, it is more profitable to build a well once. How to supply water to a house from a well or borehole?

In order to organize an uninterrupted supply of water to water collection points and ensure the required pressure, the water supply scheme must include the following elements:

• hydraulic structure;
• pump equipment;
• hydraulic accumulator;
• water treatment system;
• automation: pressure gauges, sensors;
• pipeline;
• shut-off valves;
• collectors (if necessary);
• consumers.

Additional equipment may also be required: water heaters, irrigation systems, etc.

Features of choosing pumping equipment

For a stationary water supply system, submersible centrifugal pumps are most often chosen. They are installed in wells and boreholes. If the hydraulic structure is of small depth (up to 9-10 m), then you can purchase or. This makes sense if the well casing is too narrow and difficulties arise in choosing a submersible pump of the required diameter. Then only the water intake hose is lowered into the well, and the device itself is installed in a caisson or utility room.

Pumping stations have their advantages. These are multifunctional systems - pump, automation and hydraulic accumulator. Although the cost of the station is higher than that of a submersible pump, the system is ultimately cheaper because There is no need to separately purchase a hydraulic tank.

The most significant disadvantages of pumping stations are the loud noise during operation and limitations on the depth from which they can lift water. It is important to install the equipment correctly. If you make a mistake, it can become airy, which affects the stability of the water supply.

To organize the uninterrupted operation of the water supply system, in addition to pumps, hydraulic tanks and automatic control units are installed

When choosing a pumping station, you should correctly calculate required power, productivity and buy equipment with high efficiency

There are cases when it is simply impossible to install a submersible pump and you have to install a surface or pumping station. For example, if the water level is insufficient to comply with the rules for installing deep-water equipment.

The pump must be installed so that there is a layer of water above it of at least 1 m, and 2-6 m remains to the bottom. This is necessary for good cooling of the electric motor and intake without sand and silt. Failure to comply with installation conditions will lead to rapid wear of the pump due to pumping contaminated water or burnout of the electric motor windings.

When choosing a submersible pump for a well, you need to pay attention to the type of design of the device. If a three-inch production pipe is installed, many well owners buy a cheap and reliable domestic pump "Malysh". The diameter of its body allows the device to be mounted even in narrow pipes. However, with all the advantages, “Kid” is the worst choice. This is vibration type equipment.

Constant engine vibration quickly destroys the production string. Savings on a pump can result in much larger expenses for drilling a new well or replacing the casing, which is comparable in cost and labor intensity to the construction of a hydraulic structure. Vibrating pumps are not suitable for narrow wells due to the design and operating principle. It's better to install a pumping station.

The deep pump is lowered into the well using a safety rope. If it is necessary to dismantle it, then it should also be lifted by the cable and under no circumstances should it be pulled by the water-lifting pipe

Hydraulic accumulator - guarantee of uninterrupted water supply

The presence of a hydraulic accumulator tank in the water supply system prevents many problems with the water supply to the house. This is a kind of analogue of a water tower. Thanks to the hydraulic tank, the pump operates with less load. When the tank is filled, the automation turns off the pump and turns it on only after the water level drops to a certain level.

The volume of the hydraulic tank can be any - from 12 to 500 liters. This allows for some water supply in case of a power outage. When calculating the volume of a hydraulic accumulator, it is taken into account that, on average, approximately 50 liters are needed to meet the water needs of one person. About 20 liters are taken from each water collection point every day. Water consumption for irrigation should be calculated separately.

There are two types of hydraulic accumulators - membrane and storage. The first ones are usually small in volume, equipped with a pressure gauge and a check valve. The task of such a hydraulic tank is to provide the required pressure in the water supply. Storage tanks are much larger in volume. When full, they can weigh up to a ton.

Volumetric tanks are mounted in attics, therefore, when designing a water supply system, one should foresee in advance the need to strengthen building structures and consider thermal insulation for winter period. The volume of water in the storage tank is sufficient so that in case of a power outage there will be enough water for at least a day.

There are many designs of hydraulic accumulators. Depending on the location, you can choose a vertical or horizontal model

HDPE pipes - a simple and reliable solution

On sale you can still find water pipes made of any materials - steel, copper, plastic, metal-plastic. Increasingly, owners of country houses prefer HDPE (low-density polyethylene) pipes. They are not inferior in quality to metal ones, but do not freeze, burst, rust, or rot.

High-quality HDPE pipes can last up to half a century. Due to their low weight, standardized connecting and fastening elements, they are relatively easy to install. This is an ideal option for an autonomous water supply system, and every year more and more home owners choose it. Typically, pipes with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm are purchased for water supply.

Polyethylene is elastic. It stretches and contracts depending on temperature environment. Thanks to this, it retains strength, tightness and original shape.

Laying the outer part of the pipeline

When constructing a water pipeline, it is necessary to ensure that the pipeline is connected to the water-lifting pipe below the freezing level of the soil. The best option is installation via a pitless adapter.

This is a simple and cheap device designed specifically for removing pipes from a well's production casing. How to equip a well with a pitless adapter is described in detail in the video:

If for some reason it is impossible to connect via the adapter, you will have to build a pit or install a caisson. In any case, the connection to the pipeline must be at a depth of at least 1-1.5 m. If a well is used as a source, a hole must be punched at its base to insert the pipe. Later, when all pipe laying work is completed, the inlet is sealed.

Then the scheme is approximately the same, both for a well and for a well. To lay the pipeline, a trench is prepared from the hydraulic structure to the walls of the house. Depth – 30-50 cm below the freezing level. It is advisable to immediately provide a slope of 0.15 m per 1 m of length.

When the trench is dug, its bottom is covered with a 7-10 cm layer of sand, after which it is watered and compacted. Pipes are laid on the sand bed, connected, and hydraulic tests are carried out at a pressure 1.5 times higher than the planned working pressure.

If everything is in order, the pipeline is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand and compacted without excessive pressure so as not to tear the pipes. After this, the trench is filled with soil. The pumping cable is laid together with the pipes and insulated. If necessary, it can be extended if the standard length is not enough to connect to the power source. The standard pump electrical cable is 40 m.

When preparing a trench for a pipeline, a sand cushion must be installed. This is necessary so that a sharp cobblestone from the ground does not pierce and depressurize the pipe

How else can you supply water to your house? If the house is located in harsh climatic conditions or the owner decided to lay the pipeline so as not to depend on the depth of soil freezing, then there are options for arranging an external water supply:

• The pipeline is laid at a depth of 60 cm and covered with a 20-30 cm layer of insulating mixture - expanded clay, foam chips or coal slag. The main requirements for the insulator are minimal hygroscopicity, strength, and no compaction after compaction.
• It is possible to organize external water supply at a shallow depth - from 30 cm, if the pipes are insulated with special insulation and a corrugated casing.
• Sometimes pipes are laid with a heating cable. This is an excellent solution for areas where bitter frosts are severe in winter.

The material on organizing permanent and summer water supply options at your dacha will also be useful:

Entering the pipeline into the house

Water is carried from the well into the house through the foundation. The pipeline most often freezes at the point of entry, even if it is laid according to all the rules. Concrete allows moisture to pass through well, and this contributes to problems with pipes. To avoid them, you need a piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the water supply.

It will serve as a kind of protective case for the insertion site. To do this, you can choose a pipe from any available material– asbestos, metal or plastic. The main thing is that the diameter is significantly larger, because you need to lay a water pipe with heat-insulating materials. For a 32 cm water supply, take a 50 cm case pipe.

The pipeline is insulated, placed in a protective structure, and then padded to achieve maximum waterproofing. A rope is hammered in the middle, and from it to the edge of the foundation - clay, diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. This is an excellent natural waterproofing agent. If you do not want to prepare the mixture yourself, you can use polyurethane foam or any suitable sealant.

The pipeline entry should be located in the foundation itself, and not under it, because... After pouring it, the soil under the structure must not be touched. In the same way, the sewer pipeline is introduced through the foundation. There must be at least 1.5 m between the inputs of water supply and wastewater disposal systems.

For thermal insulation, materials with a thickness of about 9 mm are used. This protects the pipeline from deformation during shrinkage

Internal distribution of water supply pipes

After you have installed water in a private house, you need to choose the layout and type of internal wiring. It can be open or closed. The first method assumes that all pipes will be visible. This is convenient from the point of view of repair and maintenance, but from an aesthetic point of view it is not the best option.

Closed pipe installation is a method of placing pipes in the floor and walls. Communications are completely masked, they are not visible under the final finish, but this is a labor-intensive and costly process. If you have to repair pipes, then the entire room where you need access to them will also require updating the finish.

The most commonly used method is the open method of laying internal water supply pipes. This is much cheaper and more convenient than gating walls to mask communications. Pipes made of polymer materials look good and are better suited for an open system than metal ones

There are the following wiring diagrams:

• collector;
• tee;
• mixed.

With the collector type of wiring, a collector (comb) is installed. Separate pipes go from it to each plumbing fixture. This wiring option is suitable for both types of pipe laying - open and closed.

Thanks to the presence of a manifold, the pressure in the system is stable, but this is an expensive undertaking, because... requires large quantity materials. A significant advantage of this scheme is that when one plumbing fixture is repaired, the water supply to the rest is possible as before.

Installation of manifold wiring is significantly more expensive than tee wiring, but these costs are recouped. Leaks most often occur at joints. With a collector circuit, the joints are minimum

The tee circuit is also called sequential. Plumbing fixtures are connected in series one after another. The advantage of the method is its cheapness and simplicity, but the disadvantage is the loss of pressure. If several devices operate simultaneously, the pressure decreases noticeably.

When repairing at one point, the entire water supply system has to be turned off. The mixed scheme provides for collector connection of mixers and serial connection of plumbing fixtures.

Serial connection of plumbing fixtures is the cheapest and most convenient option. However, such a scheme may well lead to the fact that when you open a cold tap in the kitchen, the water temperature in the bathroom will rise sharply

To drain water from the system if necessary, install a separate tap. When the internal plumbing is completely assembled, its operation is checked. If there are no leaks, the pressure at all water intake points is normal, the system can be put into operation.

Video example of arranging a water supply system inside a house:

When designing an autonomous water supply system, the need to install filters and water treatment systems should be taken into account. They can differ significantly in function, type of design and connection to the water supply. To choose the right filters, you need to do a water analysis to determine whether there are unwanted impurities. If the chemical and microbiological analyzes of the water are in order, then only rough purification of the water from sand, silt and dirt will be sufficient. If not, it is better to select equipment after consultation with specialists.