home Ceiling How to make heating private. We do the correct installation of heating in the house with our own hands: the choice of schemes and an overview of components. Installation from the company "VIP heating"

How to make heating private. We do the correct installation of heating in the house with our own hands: the choice of schemes and an overview of components. Installation from the company "VIP heating"

Properly organizing the heating of the house is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists – designers and installers – will deal with it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity it is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, it is necessary to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the heating problem yourself or competently control the hired specialists and installers.

Elements of the heating system

In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated by water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms by means of a heat carrier, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list below, when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as a transmission link, is divided into the following components:

heat source;
pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the heat carrier, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:

expansion tank;
circulation pump;
hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
buffer capacity;
distribution manifold;
indirect heating boiler;
devices and means of automation.

Note. An obligatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank, the rest of the equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space, its additional volume has nowhere to go. To avoid breaking connections from high blood pressure an expansion tank of an open or membrane type is placed in the network. She also accepts excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. The separation of the boiler circulation circuit from all the others is practiced in complex cottage systems with several floors.

Collectors for the distribution of the coolant are installed in heating systems with underfloor heating or in cases where a beam scheme for connecting batteries is used, we will talk about this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil, where water for the needs of domestic hot water is heated from the coolant. Thermometers and pressure gauges are installed in the system for visual control of the temperature and pressure of water in the system. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servo drives) not only control the coolant parameters, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the listed equipment, water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves, shown in the table:

When you have familiarized yourself with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is the calculation of thermal power by the area of heated premises.

They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 watts. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing the indicators for all rooms. We offer a more accurate method:

by 100 W multiply the area of those rooms where only 1 wall is in contact with the street, on which there is 1 window;
if the room is a corner room with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
when the room has 2 exterior walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130W.

If we consider the power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may receive less heat, and the south of Ukraine may overpay for too powerful equipment. With the help of the second, calculation method, heating is designed by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before proceeding with the calculations, the house must be measured, finding out the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, windows and doors. Then it is necessary to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W / (m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer, and then summarize the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat leaving through the external building structure, according to the formula:

QTP \u003d 1 / R x (tv - tn) x S, where:
QTP is the amount of heat lost, W;
S is the previously measured area of the building structure, m2;
tv - here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
tn - street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, substituting in turn the values of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floor and roof into the formula. Then all these results must be summed up, these will be the heat losses of this room. The areas of internal partitions do not need to be taken into account!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, it is necessary to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that's not all, because it is necessary to take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair \u003d cm (tv - tn), where:

Qair - the desired amount of heat for ventilation, W;
m - the amount of air by mass, is determined as the internal volume of the building, multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
(tv - tn) - as in the previous formula;
c is the heat capacity of air masses, taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand of the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The power of the boiler is taken with a margin for the optimal mode of operation, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here it is necessary to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for hot water supply, then the power reserve should be increased. The boiler must work effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with brief description their pros and cons. For heating residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:

solid fuel;
gas;
electrical;
on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy source, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 varieties: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to the low cost of operation, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all thermal equipment along with installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are bought by people more and more often.

On the other hand, the operation of a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to harvest, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. Serious piping of the unit is also required in order to ensure its durable and safe operation. After all, an ordinary solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And the efficient use of the generated energy is possible only if there is a thermal accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis - 80%, and pellet - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, which has a high level of automation and almost no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

gas boilers

An excellent option is to carry out heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest non-volatile unit is at least 87%, and that of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to control or change settings. A budget unit will come out much cheaper than a solid fuel one, so gas boilers can be considered publicly available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries former USSR, then the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

I must say that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only is the efficiency of the boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys and ventilation. Maintenance of the units as such is practically absent, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: the equipment and installation are very cheap, while the degree of automation can be anything. The boiler simply does not need your attention.

As pleasant as the advantages of an electric boiler, the main drawback is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you won’t be able to get around a wood-burning heat generator by this indicator. Such is the price for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second minus is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cross out all thoughts about electric heating.

Oil boilers

At the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating on waste oil or diesel fuel will cost about the same as on natural gas. Their performance indicators are also similar, although, for obvious reasons, working out loses somewhat. Another thing is that this species heating can be safely called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end at least with the smell of diesel fuel or with dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot to the waist.

The use of diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Waste oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source of it. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, supplying main gas. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the mining furnace cannot burn methane.

Schemes of heating systems for a private house

Heating systems implemented in private housing construction are one- and two-pipe. It's easy to tell them apart:

according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe, and returns through the other.

The choice of a heating system scheme for a private house is not an easy task, it certainly does not hurt to consult a specialist. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more difficult. This topic is covered in great detail in this video:

The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from the radiator to the radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And the last thing: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or cottage with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal scheme (common name - Leningradka). With more heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes are quite common and work successfully.

The coolant with two-pipe wiring is delivered to all radiators with the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. The division of the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries through thermostatic valves.

Pipeline diameters are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are such types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (shoulders), along which the coolant moves along the mains towards each other;

an associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply one, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (beam). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the laying method is hidden, in the floor.

If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then the circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. In fairness, we note that without a pump, both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function. If only conditions were created for the natural circulation of water.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point that communicates with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If, however, an expansion tank of a membrane type is installed on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern version, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of the coolant.

It is impossible not to say about the method of heating the house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is the high cost, since hundreds of meters of pipes will need to be laid in the screed, as a result of which a heating water circuit is obtained in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important plus is the economical uniform heating of the premises, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are unambiguously recommended for use in all residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can safely be recommended to adopt the usual two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of the coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For the natural movement of water, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the radiators on the first floor.

The place where the heat generator will be located must be chosen taking into account the minimum allowable distances from walls or other equipment. Typically, these intervals are indicated in the manual supplied with the product. If these data are not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

passage width from the front side of the boiler - 1 m;
if you do not need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
distance to the nearest equipment - 0.7 m;
when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed, only the clearance in front of the unit must be observed for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the piping of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here it must be borne in mind that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models also have an expansion tank. To begin with, consider the connection diagram of a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This type of binding is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump is located on the return line, there is also an expansion tank. The pressure is controlled by pressure gauges, air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. Tying an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for the needs of domestic hot water, the piping and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial gas duct is used, which is brought out horizontally through the wall. If the furnace of the unit is open, then a traditional chimney with good natural draft is needed. How to properly install a chimney from sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses of a large area, it is often necessary to dock a boiler with several heating circuits - radiator, underfloor heating and an indirect heating boiler for hot water needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize an independent circulation of the coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the schematic diagram of heating a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, so that it works independently of the others. Since a coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to the warm floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They mix hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the underfloor heating circuits decreases.

With solid fuel heat generators, the situation is more complicated. Their binding should take into account 2 points:

possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit, the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
formation of condensate when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return line, and a safety group must be on the supply immediately after the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial, it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping scheme is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system to pass into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 ° C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the peculiarities of operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners put two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. In this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and electric boiler, working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood-fired heat generator that supplies heat for heating the house and preparing water for hot water supply:

To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private houses:

steel;
copper;
stainless steel;
polypropylene (PPR);
polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
metal-plastic.

Heating mains made of ordinary "black" metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and "overgrowth" of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to carry out installation from such pipes on your own: good welding skills are needed in order to carry out a tight joint. However, some homeowners still use steel piping to this day when they install independent heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel tubing is a great choice, but it's too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if funds are available, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel - using collapsible or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially with hidden laying.

Advice. For tying boilers and laying highways within the boiler room, it is best to use any kind of metal pipes.

Heating from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, it is necessary to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only plus, since the installation of heating from polypropylene pipes is a rather complicated and responsible matter. And in appearance, polypropylene loses to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are carried out by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will definitely leak later, but if it is overheated, the blurred polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, it will not be possible to see this during assembly, the flaws will make themselves felt later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid "saber" bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes with your own hands. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are most convenient, since the joints here are quite simple. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: the connections must be made on press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways, and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of pipes made of PEX material is in its desire to return to its original state, which is why the laid heating manifold may look slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and calmly bend as you need. More information about the choice of pipes is described in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, having entered a heating equipment store and seeing the widest selection of different radiators there, may conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression, in fact there are not so many varieties of them:

aluminum;
bimetallic;
steel panel and tubular;
cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Aluminum alloy sectional batteries have the best heat transfer performance, bimetallic heaters are not far from them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This is done with the aim of using the devices in the district heating systems of high-rise buildings, where pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage does not make sense at all.

It should be noted that the installation of heating in a private house will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer performance is less than that of aluminum, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.

Steel and aluminum heating appliances have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic regulation using thermostatic valves. What can not be said about massive cast-iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. All because of the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time, and then retain heat for a while. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.

If we touch on the issue of aesthetics of appearance, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost fabulous money, and inexpensive "accordions" of the Soviet model MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion is:

For a private house, buy those heating devices that you like the most and suit the cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and heat output.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The selection of the number of sections or the size of the panel radiator is carried out according to the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning, it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for the temperature difference between the coolant and the room air, equal to 70 ° C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the actual thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper space heating, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margins is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating appliances with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank outer walls. In this case, the connection to the highways can be done in several ways:

lateral unilateral;
diagonal versatile;
lower - if the radiator has corresponding pipes.

The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when it is connected to risers, and the diagonal one - to horizontally laid lines. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat up evenly.

When a one-pipe heating system is installed, the bottom versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators, where the design provides for the connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and in fact they have a one-sided side circuit. This is clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

A lot of useful information on the choice of heating devices can be found by watching the video:

5 common editing mistakes

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make much more than five flaws, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

wrong choice of heat source;
errors in the piping of the heat generator;
incorrectly selected heating system;
careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
improper installation and connection of heating devices.

A boiler of insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat the premises, but also to prepare water for the needs of hot water supply. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat the water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the DHW system will not heat up to the desired temperature.

Details play not only a functional role, but also serve security purposes. For example, it is recommended to install a pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is to install a crane in the area between the boiler and the security group, this is strictly unacceptable.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, the pump must not be placed in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point, with a closed one - on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a sump mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines by means of American women.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to mind. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when more than 5 radiators are tried to “hang” on one branch, which then do not heat. The flaws in the installation of the system include non-observance of slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a conventional ball valve is installed at the radiator inlet, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the road. When joining polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to carefully adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is well known that filtered and, if possible, demineralized water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, such as periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all gaskets from ordinary rubber from the system. From antifreeze, they quickly become limp and a leak occurs.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is displayed in its technical data sheet. This must be checked upon purchase.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through a make-up valve and a check valve. In the process of filling, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and Mayevsky manual taps. With a closed circuit, pressure is monitored by a pressure gauge. Usually, in a cold state, it lies in the range of 1.2-1.5 bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the make-up when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system with a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. In order for the process not to be interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of the appropriate capacity, from where it should be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into an expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite realistic. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including for monitoring the installation in the event that you decide to hire specialists for this.

Despite the apparent simplicity, competent and proper organization of heating is quite a difficult task, especially for non-professionals. If there are no necessary skills, surprises in the form of the need to redo work in the future, contacting specialists in the installation and design of home heating systems will help - in Moscow and the regions it should not be a big problem to find qualified installers. Therefore, you need to decide first whether it is worth developing a scheme for heating a private house with your own hands or turning to professionals.

It is very difficult to perform calculation and installation without specialized education

In general, in order for high-quality heating to appear at home, you can go in the following ways:

Contact a specialized service that will perform both the creation of a heating scheme for a private house by a designer and installation work;

Order partial execution of installation work by specialists;

Get professional advice, and install heating in a private house on your own.

Regardless of the option chosen, you should imagine the entire mounting process in stages. Even if you don’t have to do anything on your own, it never hurts to control the progress of the work performed.

What is home heating

This is a set of engineering components designed to receive heat, transport it and maximize the return in the right room, to maintain the temperature conditions in it at a given level. Consists of:

Converter of stored fuel energy into heat (boiler);

Coolant transportation systems (pipes)

Shutoff and control valves (faucets, manifolds, etc.);

Devices for transferring heat to air or a solid surface (battery, heated towel rail, heated floor).

A sample project for arranging a heating system for a private house

What is burned in boilers

The choice of the boiler is initially made according to the type of fuel from which it extracts thermal energy:

Gas is a simple and inexpensive heating solution. The use of this type of fuel allows you to fully automate the heating process, subject to high-quality installation and configuration of equipment;

solid fuel most often used in settlements where there is no pipeline. Are applied: firewood, briquettes, coal or pellets. These types of boilers have a drawback - it is impossible to fully automate the heating process. They require manual filling of the combustion chamber every 10 hours and a separate place to store the fuel. They also need to be cleaned periodically. An intermediate solution is the use of an automatic distributor - autonomy in this case depends on the size of the bunker. In some cases, it is possible to increase the operating time of the boiler without adding fuel to 5-12 days;

Electricity is the leader in terms of high cost, and at the same time convenience and environmental friendliness of use. The main advantage of such devices is the ability to fully automate control. Still, such boilers practically do not need care;

Liquid fuels (gasoline, diesel) are most often used in places where there are no other sources of energy. The efficiency of such boilers is about 80%, which makes them relatively economical.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer heating and water supply services country houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Comparison of fuels in the video:

Coolant transfer devices

For use as a heat carrier, the universal solution in terms of price and efficiency will be the use of ordinary water. True, such heating systems in private homes will require additional equipment to be installed. It includes the following elements:

Capacity to compensate for the expansion of the liquid when heated (open or membrane type);

circulation pump;

Hydrogun;

buffer tank;

Collector. Needed if a beam wiring system is used;

Tank for indirect heating;

Sensors and devices for taking their readings (if automation is used).

Note. The expansion tank is an integral part of the water heating system. It must be installed without fail.

When heated, water increases in volume, which in a confined space increases the pressure in the pipes and often provokes their rupture. An expansion tank helps to avoid such consequences, into which excess water is displaced.

This is how the expansion tank looks in the system

The circulation pump ensures the movement of the coolant through the pipe network. The use of several pumping units for a large number circuits, possibly due to the installation of a dividing hydraulic switch, or a buffer tank, which simultaneously acts as a reservoir that accumulates heat. Especially the use of such equipment is indicated for multi-storey private houses.

Distribution manifolds are most often installed to power underfloor heating or when connecting radiators in a beam pattern. As for the tank for indirect heating, it is a tank with a coil that heats water for hot water needs.

Measuring instruments are installed for visual control over temperature indicators and pressure in pipes. To ensure automation of the heating process, pressure sensors, temperature controllers and controllers are installed.

Varieties of batteries in shape and material

There are various types of heating devices on the market, each of which has its own design features and characteristics. During the installation of heating in a private house, an important condition for the correct operation of the entire installation is the competent selection of the heating unit.

Properly selected batteries are the key to uniform heating of the room.

There are the following types:

Sectional cast iron batteries. Their disadvantages are bulkiness, unsightly appearance, possible violation of the integrity of the joints between sections, as well as a low degree of heat transfer; Instead, they are resistant to pressure drops and have an impressive service life.

Sectional batteries made of bimetallic materials. Radiator sections are made of light-alloy metal, and their inner part is lined with stainless steel. They differ in durability, practicality and aesthetic appearance. Unlike cast iron radiators, bimetallic ones are able to withstand higher pressure;

Sectional aluminum batteries are made of light alloy metals without the use of steel. They have high thermal conductivity, and the operating pressure is comparable to that of cast iron radiators;

Panel batteries made of steel. They are non-separable type welding structures with decorative cladding and have high heat transfer rates. The disadvantages include low operating pressure, which limits the scope.

The convector is a finned pipe designed for the same pressure as in the main pipelines.

Important! It is strongly not recommended to use steel pipes for concealed installation of piping. It is also forbidden to join different materials together - a common mistake is to connect copper pipes to aluminum radiators.

The pipelines through which the coolant enters the heating devices can be made of polymeric and combined materials, copper or steel.

Pipelines and branch pipes made of various materials

The basis for choosing any autonomous heating circuit is the purchase of a boiler with the necessary design and operating on a certain type of fuel. Main selection criteria:

Reliability and safety;

Operation on a publicly available type of fuel;

Compact dimensions;

Ease of maintenance, adjustment;

maintainability;

Safety is an absolute advantage of a water heating system. But in addition to the positive aspects, it has disadvantages:

The difficulty of heating large rooms due to significant heat loss during the circulation of the coolant through the pipes;

Additional costs for hiding an extensive network of pipes and heating devices under the cladding to preserve the aesthetics of the appearance of the rooms;

Large dimensions of batteries;

Possible problems after draining the coolant from the pipes, in the form of the appearance of air plugs.

What does the thermal imager show if there is air in the sections

What heating systems are used according to the wiring method

Structurally, a water heating system can be implemented in the following ways:

Single-circuit. It is closed and focused only on space heating;

Dual circuit. Requires the installation of a boiler of a certain design. It is focused both on heating of rooms, and on supply of hot water in cranes.

According to the method of distributing heating from a boiler in private houses, the following varieties are distinguished:

Single pipe connection

The pipes are looped here, and the batteries are connected one after the other. The coolant moves from the boiler to each radiator in turn. Its significant drawback is the uneven heating of heating devices. The farther they are located from the boiler, the lower the temperature in them. At the same time, such an arrangement of heating is quite common due to its economy and simple design.

The difference between one-pipe and two-pipe connections

To reduce heat loss, you can apply the following tricks:

Install last radiators with an increased number of sections;

Increase the temperature of the coolant, but this will increase costs;

Install a pump - switch from gravity to forced water circulation. In this case, the water will pass through the system faster and return to the boiler.

Two-pipe connection

Here, additional discharge pipes are used, which take the cooled coolant from the batteries back to the boiler. Hot water is transferred without heat loss.

Also, parallel connection makes it possible to save on material.

Beam heating distribution

This type of heating distribution in private homes is essentially a set of small autonomous circuits. Water pressure and temperature in each of them can be adjusted separately. It is still rarely used due to the complexity of execution. In addition to a large number of pipes, it requires the installation of additional equipment, namely a collector, which plays the role of a storage tank with subsequent distribution of the coolant.

Video description

An example of radiant heating distribution on video:

Fluid circulation methods

The movement of the coolant through the pipes is carried out by gravity (convection and expansion), or by force. In the first case, the liquid heated in the boiler, due to convection, moves through the network of pipes to the radiators. This movement of water is called direct current. Further, the coolant cooled in the batteries moves back to the heating boiler, after which the cycle repeats. This segment is the reverse current.

To increase the circulation rate of the heat carrier through the pipes, specialized pumping units are used, installed between the return pipes. There are models of heating boilers with built-in pumps.

Natural way of circulation

The movement of the coolant here is carried out in a natural way, without the application of extraneous forces. Here we use the simplest physical principle, thanks to which the water is heated in the kettle, and this happens because its hot layers are lighter than cold ones and rise to the top.

An example of the natural circulation of the coolant

This is how the whole process happens - the water heated in the boiler rises to the highest point of the wiring and then moves by gravity under its own weight (the pipes stand at a slope of 3-4 degrees). Passing through the batteries, the water cools down, its density increases, and when it enters the heating boiler, it displaces the already heated layers up.

Heating systems based on this type of circulation are quite simple and do not require the installation of additional equipment, which simplifies the installation process. But they are only suitable for houses with a small area due to restrictions on the length of the contour of 30 meters. Also, the disadvantages include the need to install pipes with a large diameter and low pressure indicators.

artificial circulation method

The implementation of the forced movement of fluid through pipes requires the mandatory installation of a pumping unit that provides increased circulation. The circulation of the coolant is provided by the difference in the pressures of the forward and reverse strokes. The installation of such structures does not require the calculation and observance of the slope of the pipes, which is an undoubted advantage.

With forced circulation, pipe slopes are not necessary

The disadvantages include energy dependence - if electricity is turned off in winter, then without a generator, water simply will not move through the pipes. This is an important point that must be taken into account when choosing the type of coolant circulation.

Installation of heating with forced movement of the coolant can be carried out in houses with any quadrature. The power of the pumping unit is selected individually.

Calculation of the heating system

To make the correct heating installation, it is necessary to calculate the main parameters, which will make it possible to determine the required boiler power, pipeline dimensions and radiator capacity.

To begin with, the dimensions of all rooms are calculated. To maintain a moderate temperature regime, a boiler with a power of 70 W / m³ should be installed, including a mandatory margin of 20% to reduce the load.

Video description

For questions regarding air heating, see this video. :

The capacity of the required batteries is calculated individually for each room. The initial power indicator of the heating boiler is multiplied by the dimensions of the room. 20% is added to the obtained value and divided by the power indicators of one section of the battery. The result is rounded up. It shows the required number of battery ribs per room.

Mistakes during installation

The most common mistakes when performing calculations or installing heating are:

Incorrect determination of the required boiler power;

Wrong binding;

Illiterate choice of the heating scheme itself;

Incorrect installation of all elements.

Insufficient boiler power indicators are the most common mistake. It is done when, during the selection of a heat generator for heating and hot water supply, the necessary additional power for heating water is not taken into account.

Incorrect selection of the heating scheme leads to additional costs for reworking the entire structure. Such an error is allowed when a single-pipe wiring is installed with more than 6 radiators. A large number of batteries does not allow them to warm up.

The last heating elements in the chain will always remain cold

Also, during installation, pipeline slopes are not respected, poor quality pipes are connected and unsuitable additional equipment is installed.

When installing underfloor heating, the pipes are insulated without fail, in order to avoid heat loss on the way to the heating "snail".

A common mistake during the connection of pipelines is the excess of the time required for a reliable joint to be reached by the soldering iron on the pipes. As a result, their inner diameter decreases and a bottleneck is formed.

Conclusion

A correctly chosen heating scheme in a private house and its correct installation will provide heat to all rooms during the cold season. You can install heating in a private house on your own, but if you have doubts about your abilities, then it will be more economical to turn to professionals.

Organizing heating with your own hands is a difficult task, but doable. This will require minimal knowledge in the field of plumbing, as well as the skills of a welder and builder. After all, for laying pipes, you will have to make holes in the walls, and solder the pipes themselves. Otherwise, the main thing is to organize the process correctly!

Choosing a boiler for a heating system

The heating scheme does not depend on the type of boiler chosen, but it is a key element of the heating system in a private house. The cost of heating, maintenance of the boiler and the time to refuel it will depend on the correct choice.

Gas, solid fuel or electric?

The type of boiler depends on the availability of different types of fuel. So, the installation of a gas boiler is possible only if there is a gas main and a house is connected to it. This will require additional costs and obtaining permits, and the boiler can only be connected to the heating system by a specialist. Such a boiler requires a ventilation system and a chimney.

Solid fuel boilers guarantee complete autonomy from external factors. But at the same time, you will have to organize a place to store fuel, and loading the boiler takes a lot of time. After all, even long-burning boilers need to be loaded every 3 days. A chimney and ventilation are also needed.

The cheapest and easiest to use is electric. But electricity bills can scare away even very lazy owners. Such a boiler is suitable for a mild climate, a small house and, preferably, with solar panels and a windmill.

Single loop and double loop?

Double-circuit boilers perform two functions at once - they heat the room and heat the water. It is much more economical and does not require the installation of additional equipment. But in the summer, their use is unprofitable, the only way out is gas double-circuit boilers. They have the ability to turn off the heating circuit and work only in DHW mode.

With solid fuel boilers, you can get out of the situation by closing the heating circuit with taps. So the heat will be spent only on heating the water, which significantly reduces fuel consumption. The only inconvenience is that the boiler needs to be loaded even in summer.

When using a single-circuit boiler, you will have to additionally install a boiler or column, but in some cases such a scheme will be more profitable. For example, having also installed an indirect heating boiler, in winter the water heating will still be carried out by the boiler, saving electricity.

This difficult choice - batteries or underfloor heating

Another dilemma facing the owners of a private house is the choice of heating method. After all, both batteries and underfloor heating have their advantages. For example, the installation of radiators is much simpler than underfloor heating, but the latter is much better in terms of efficiency.

Cast iron, steel or aluminum radiators?

Given the low pressure in the heating system of a private house, the choice of radiators is not limited by anything. Cast iron is durable, unpretentious to the quality of the coolant and pressure drops. But cast iron batteries cannot be used in systems with thermoregulation, because they heat up slowly and cool down just as slowly.

Aluminum radiators can be considered universal. The low price, fast heating and the ability to connect a thermostat make them very popular. But with increased alkalinity of water, there is a high chance of corrosion and leakage between sections.

The only disadvantage of steel batteries is instability to water hammer, which does not happen in a private house system. At the same time, low price, resistance to corrosion and fast heat transfer make them ideal for autonomous heating.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor

The complexity of laying a water-heated floor makes it practically inaccessible for organizing with your own hands. But as a separate heating element, it is very convenient and relatively simple to implement. For example, in the bathroom, underfloor heating will come in handy.

For such a solution, only collector wiring is suitable - the most technologically advanced, but also the most difficult to implement with your own hands. At the same time, underfloor heating may be contraindicated for health reasons, such as varicose veins. But for families with small children, heated floors are an ideal solution.

Heating schemes - one-pipe, two-pipe and collector

Scheme of a single-pipe heating system - economical, but inconvenient

A single-pipe heating system allows you to use the heating pipe as efficiently as possible - after all, only hot water flows around the entire perimeter. This option is suitable for small one-room cottages, because each next radiator will be colder than the previous one.

In addition, you will have to install a pump that provides forced circulation of the coolant. And this makes the house dependent on electricity, even if the boiler runs on solid fuel.

Two-pipe scheme - ease of installation and ease of use

If there is a goal to make the house completely autonomous, you can arrange heating with natural circulation. But for this, it will be necessary to lay pipes with a slope of at least 0.05%, so that air bubbles enter the open expansion tank, and the coolant itself circulates better.

On the riser, hot water rises to the desired height on its own, and on the floor, the slope of the pipes should always be down from the riser - so the heated coolant will enter the radiators, and the already cooled coolant from them will enter the boiler. For a two-story building, natural circulation is not always suitable, since the lower floors will always be colder than the upper ones.

The forced circulation scheme of a two-pipe system is much simpler. For organizing heating with your own hands, this is the best option, because pipes can be laid from below along the wall and hidden in decorative panels. This will not require chasing walls or pouring floors over pipes.

Collector scheme - in step with progress

In this case, a collector is installed between the heating devices and the boiler. With it, you can optimally distribute the coolant in each room, depending on the needs. But such a heating scheme is much more complicated and it can be done with your own hands only if you have experience.

Another drawback is its high cost due to the large amount of consumable material. Pipes, manifold cabinets, pumps and filters are essential elements of a manifold heating scheme. But this allows you to combine various heating devices and very accurately regulate the temperature in the rooms.

Do-it-yourself heating installation

After choosing a heating scheme, counting the amount of materials and purchasing heating equipment, it is installed. The correct order must be followed:

Boiler installation;
connection of the pump and other measuring instruments near the boiler;
collector installation;
piping;
underfloor heating installation
installation of radiators;
connecting all heating devices and starting the system.

The boiler must be installed in a separate room with ventilation. The exception is electric boilers that can be installed in residential premises and gas boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Wall models are attached to a special bar on the wall. It is forbidden to mount them directly on the wall. Floor models are also installed on a stand - in the photo, a solid fuel boiler stands on a brick stand. The distances indicated in the passport from walls and other objects must be observed, and the room itself is equipped in accordance with fire safety standards.

The circulation pump is connected after the installation of the boiler. If the selected model is equipped with an expansion tank and a safety group, they do not need to be installed separately. Also at this stage, boilers and backup boilers are installed, if they are provided for by the scheme.

Piping and underfloor heating

If a collector scheme is selected, collector cabinets are installed, and after that the heating pipes are bred and laid. Installing pipes along the walls allows you to significantly simplify the organization of heating the house with your own hands. But in this case, the consumption of materials increases.

The device of heated floors is carried out in two ways - by concreting or by laying. In the first case, it will take up to 4 weeks for the concrete screed to dry, but the floor will warm up much faster.

It is much easier to use special plastic or wooden modules, but they are more expensive and the floors warm up more slowly. But in case of malfunctions, maintenance of such floors is much easier to disassemble.

Batteries are installed under each window opening, and the number of sections is calculated depending on the size of the room. The radiators are mounted on brackets that are leveled. It is important to observe distances - from the floor and window sill at least 6-10 cm, from the wall about 5 cm.

Connection to heating pipes is made after installing the battery on the brackets. Connection is carried out using adapters, so it is not necessary to adjust the wiring to the location of the holes. In addition, the elements of the supply to the radiators must have a slope of 0.5 cm in the direction of circulation for each meter of pipe. Otherwise, the accumulating air in the battery will have to be blown out manually.

Results

The simplest in execution is a two-pipe heating system with forced circulation and installed radiators. But still, for those who have never encountered the installation of a heating system and do not have building skills, it is better to turn to specialists.

At the same time, one should not forget to control the performers! Everything that a novice "builder" needs to know for the proper organization of the heating system is described in the video:

Installation of heating of a private house on a turnkey basis from the company "VIP HEATING" - these are measures for the installation of an energy-efficient system, the operation of which can be regulated, creating a comfortable temperature level in the room. Autonomous heating provides independence from the problematic work of utilities, control of energy consumption and the ability to independently determine the beginning and end of the heating season.

Modern heating systems operate on different types of fuel and almost completely automate the process of heat supply. Proper installation of equipment includes the following steps:

installation of heating of a private house is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the project developed for a particular facility;
on the basis of heat engineering calculations and customer preferences, the most cost-effective and constructive version of the system is selected;
the main link in the heat supply scheme is a boiler for the selected type of fuel, under which a part of the living space or a separate room is allocated;
the connecting component between the radiators and the boiler are pipes, the installation of which requires competent transportation and connection;
after the installation of the system, hydraulic tests are carried out to check the operation of each element.

Prices for the installation of heating a private house

Prices for turnkey installation of heating equipment depend on the area of the house, the type of boiler chosen, its power, and the length of the pipe lines. The formation of cost is also affected by the complexity of the work, which depends on the thickness of the walls, the diameter of the installed pipes, the features of the components and valves.

Mounted equipment		Installation of heating of a private house	Unit.	Price per job
Heating radiators		Installation of a radiator, installation of a shut-off and control valve, connection to heating pipelines.	PC.	2500 rub.
Non-standard radiators (cast iron, custom-sized radiators, design radiators)			PC.	from 3750 rub.
Floor convectors			PC.	from 3250 rub.
Distribution manifolds for radiator heating		Installation of a collector, connection of pipelines, installation of stop valves.	PC.	5000 rub.
Distribution manifold cabinets		Installation of a surface-mounted/built-in distribution cabinet (the built-in cabinet is installed in a prepared niche, the niche is made for an additional fee).	PC.	2000 rub.
Thermostatic regulators		Installation of a thermostatic regulator on a heater.	PC.	300 rub.
Main pipes	metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene up to Ø16-20 mm	Heating pipe laying.	m	85 rub.
	made of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene Ø25-32 mm	Laying of pipelines.	m	250 rub.
	polypropylene up to Ø20-25 mm	Installation of pipeline for heating systems.	m	250 rub.
	polypropylene Ø25-32 mm		m	300 rub.
	polypropylene up to Ø40-50 mm		m	400 rub.
	copper up to Ø15-28 mm		m	350 rub.
	copper up to Ø35-54 mm		m	450 rub.
Pipe thermal insulation for pipelines		Installation of pipe insulation.	m	45 rub.
Filling the system with coolant	for houses up to 250 m2	Filling the heating system with a manual pump.	PC.	2500 rub.
Filling the system with coolant	for houses 250-500 m2	Filling the heating system with a manual pump.	PC.	3500 rub.
System pressure test	for houses up to 250 m2	Pressurization, air release from the heating system.	PC.	2000 rub.
System pressure test	for houses 250-500 m2	Pressurization, air release from the heating system.	PC.	3000 rub.
Heating main, pre-insulated		Laying of pipelines of a heating main in a trench, anchoring of inputs to the building, purging and pressure testing of the route (without land and construction works).	m	500 rub.
Heating main pipes cross-linked polyethylene / metal-plastic in a sleeve from a sewer pipe		Installation of pipelines with thermal insulation in a sewer pipe in a trench, anchoring of the entrances to the building, blowing and pressure testing of the route (without land and construction work) up to Ø40 mm	m	1000 rub.

We are ready to offer a favorable price for the installation of equipment for individual heat supply:

our prices for the installation of heating of a private house are among the lowest in the metropolitan area;
along with an adequate cost of work, you get a guarantee for them and operational deadlines;
when ordering heating installation for a large area house, we provide a good discount;
in each case, the total amount of expenses is determined after the departure of the master to the place.

The cost of a professional turnkey heating installation for a private house pays off with the stable and uninterrupted operation of all elements of this system. Proper installation of heat supply in a private house guarantees the stability of the equipment and its long service life. We offer not only an affordable price list for the installation of a cottage heating system, but also an extensive range of heating devices and components for the implementation of technical solutions of any complexity.

To order an inexpensive and professional installation of heating in a private house, please contact us. Call the VIP HEATING company at +7 (495) 135‑00‑98 and leave your request for work.

Photo of work on the installation of heating in private homes:

Go shopping

What you need to install a working water heating system?

Here is the complete list:

Boiler. It should provide the minimum operating costs and, if possible, require the minimum attention of the owner;
Boiler piping- safety group (air vent, pressure gauge and safety valve), circulation pump and expansion tank, which compensates for the increase in volume during heating;

I deliberately excluded from consideration open gravity systems, in which the functions of the entire strapping are performed by an open expansion tank. They are extremely simple structurally, but differ from closed systems with forced circulation by long heating, a large temperature spread between the heating devices and the formation of scale in the boiler heat exchanger.

Pipes— bottling, connections to radiators and (optionally) heating risers;
Actually heating appliances and their piping- valves for shutdown or chokes for separate adjustment.

Boiler

How to choose a boiler for water heating?

If you have gas in your house or on the site, great. You cannot find a cheaper source of heat: the thermal energy obtained by burning natural gas costs only 50-70 kopecks per kilowatt-hour.

The most economical type of gas boilers - with electric ignition.

What is the cost savings?

The absence of a pilot burner saves up to 25% of the gas that burns when the boiler is idle, when the coolant is heated to a sufficiently high temperature;
Another 10 - 12% savings is provided by the utilization of the heat of condensation of water vapor, which in traditional boilers leaves the house along with the rest of the combustion products.

In the absence of a gas pipeline near the house, the remaining heat sources are arranged in terms of efficiency in this order:

A few nuances:

The power source of a gas boiler can be not only main gas, but also cylinders or its own gas tank. But in this case, the cost of a kilowatt-hour will increase to 3 and 2.3 rubles, respectively;
I gave the average prices at the time of writing the article (beginning of 2017), relevant for the central regions of the country at a small distance from the capital. However, regional energy prices and local utility rates can make their own adjustments.
For example, in Moscow, a kilowatt-hour of electricity costs at a one-rate tariff not 4, but 5 rubles. In Sevastopol, where I live, pellets are twice as expensive as in the Moscow region - 15,000 rubles per ton against 7,000;
To kindle a solid fuel boiler on coal, firewood is needed, which will further increase operating costs and time;

Gas, diesel and electric boilers can operate without maintenance as long as electricity, gas or oil is supplied. A pellet boiler with a bunker and a pellet feeder is capable of autonomous operation for a week. A solid fuel boiler will have to be melted and cleaned of ash several times a day;

Some types of boilers are designed for longer battery life. For example, pyrolysis (smoldering firewood with limited air access, followed by afterburning of combustion products in a separate chamber) increases autonomy up to 10-12 hours. Upper combustion boilers with a telescopic air duct are completely capable of working on one tab for up to a day.

Replacing diesel fuel with mining will reduce operating costs by 5-6 times. However, mining boilers are not very popular, since only car service workers have a constant supply channel for used engine oil.

Another source of cheap heat is a mining boiler.

For a private house with high-quality insulation of walls and ceilings, located in the central regions of the country, the boiler power is selected at the rate of 100 watts per square meter.

For houses in the northern or southern regions, buildings with low-quality or, conversely, very effective insulation and with high ceiling heights, it is better to use the formula Q \u003d V * Dt * k / 860.

The variables in this formula are (from left to right):

The heat demand of the premises in kilowatts;
Its volume in cubic meters;
The temperature difference between the street and the house (it is usually taken equal to the difference between the sanitary standard of -18 - 22 degrees - and the temperature of the coldest five-day period in your locality);
warming factor. It can be selected according to the table:

For example, for a house measuring 10x10x6 meters with brick walls 50 cm thick and double-glazed windows, located in Surgut (the temperature of the coldest five days of winter is -43), the heat demand will be (10 * 10 * 6) * (22 - -43) *1.9/860=86 kilowatts.

Is there an inexpensive alternative to solid fuel boilers in the absence of gas?

Heat pumps run on electricity, but they do not use it to directly heat the air in the house, but to pump heat from a low-grade source - soil, water or air.

Since electricity is consumed only by the compressor, for every kilowatt-hour of electricity, the owner receives from three to six kilowatt-hours of heat, which reduces heating costs to comparable with solid fuel heating and even gas.

Many potential buyers are put off by the high cost of heat pumps and the costly installation of a heating system. Suffice it to say that the installation of a geothermal pump requires drilling wells several tens of meters deep or laying a horizontal collector in a pit, an area three times the size of the house.

However, in warm regions, an air-to-air heating scheme can be implemented: a heat pump takes energy from the air outside the house and heats it without the mediation of a heat carrier, by simply blowing an internal heat exchanger.

Doesn't it remind you of anything?

That's right, this is how any household air conditioner works in heating mode.

A household split system is a special case of a heat pump.

I use air conditioners as the main source of heat for my home.

Here is a brief account of their operation:

Four inverters constantly working in winter, together with the installation, cost me about 110 thousand rubles;
The heated area of the house is 154 m2. It maintains a temperature of 20-22 degrees;
Air conditioners continue to work for heating even with rare frosts in Sevastopol (the minimum temperature with which the heating system was tested is -21 degrees);
Electricity consumption for heating winter months is approximately 1500 kWh. How much this is in money, the reader can calculate at local rates.

The photo shows the external blocks of air conditioners that heat the bedroom and the nursery on the ground floor.

Boiler piping

How to choose a piping for the boiler?

I have already listed its main elements. There are subtleties, however, here.

When choosing a circulation pump, look first of all at its performance. A minimum pressure of 2 meters (0.2 kgf / cm2) is enough to make the heating system of an apartment building work.

The pump performance is selected according to the formula Q=0.86R/Dt.

In it:

Q is the desired value in cubic meters per hour;
R is the power of the boiler or the circuit served by the pump with forced circulation of the coolant;
Dt is the temperature difference between the supply and return (usually it is approximately equal to 20 degrees).

So, for our freezing house in Surgut, we need a pump with a capacity of 0.86*86/20=3.7 m3/h.

The safety valve must be set to the maximum pressure allowed for the heating system (usually 2.5 kgf / cm2.

The volume of the membrane expansion tank is usually taken with a small margin equal to 1/10 of the volume of the coolant in the circuit. To find out the last parameter with maximum accuracy, it is enough to fill the circuit with water and drain it into a container of a known volume.

In a balanced heating system with aluminum or bimetal radiators, the coolant volume is approximately 15 liters per kilowatt of boiler output.

The standard charging pressure of the expansion tank is 1.5 kgf/cm2. Approximately the same operating pressure must be maintained in the heating system during operation. It can be increased using a tap connecting the heating circuit to the cold water system, or by simply pumping air into the expansion tank through the spool.

Pipes

What pipes to use for heating distribution in the house?

In my opinion, the best material for an autonomous water heating system is polypropylene reinforced with aluminum foil.

Why exactly him?

These pipes are among the cheapest. So, with an outer diameter of 20 mm, a running meter of a pipe costs only 70 rubles. Compare this cost with corrugated stainless steel (from 290 rubles per meter) and copper (from 400 rubles);
Their connections are maintenance-free and are as durable as a solid pipe. The fitting can be hidden in a strobe or screed;
The strength and heat resistance of polypropylene is quite sufficient for the modest operational parameters of an autonomous system (up to + 75 ° C at a pressure of not more than 2.5 atmospheres).

Why do I recommend reinforced pipes and aluminum in particular?

It's not about resistance to hydrostatic pressure - it is already redundant. Keywords- elongation on heating. According to this parameter, polypropylene without reinforcement is ahead of the rest: a meter pipe heated by 50 degrees becomes 6.5 mm longer. Fiberglass reinforcement reduces elongation to 3.1 mm and aluminum to 1.5 mm/meter.

For comparison, a steel pipe under the same conditions will lengthen by 0.5 mm.

When installing long straight sections of filling, the pipes are opened by compensators - ring or U-shaped bends, which avoid pipeline deformation.

What should be the diameter of the pipes?

The inner diameter is selected depending on the thermal load on the corresponding section of the circuit. For bottling, the heat load is equal to the power of the boiler, for connections - the power of the heater, for the riser - the total heat transfer of all devices connected to it.

The values of the inner diameter are selected from another table.

The diameter can be reduced by increasing the speed of the coolant (read - pump performance). However, a trap awaits us here: following the increase in flow rate, hydraulic noise will appear - first on the throttling valves, and then on all fitting connections. Therefore, it is better to select the speed from a range of 0.4 - 0.6 m / s (blue columns in the table).

In a natural circulation system, the filling diameter is increased by at least one step. The instruction is related to the minimum hydraulic head that ensures the movement of the coolant: with an increase in diameter, the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline decreases.

Heating appliances

What batteries are better to buy?

Our choice is aluminum sectional radiators. Cheap and cheerful: maximum heat transfer (with a standard battery size - about 200 watts per section) and a minimum price (from 300 rubles).

How to choose the number of sections?

The power of the heater for a separate room is calculated according to the same scheme as the heat demand of the house. To recalculate the power in the number of sections, it is enough to divide it by the heat flow from one section. It is always indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation for the device.

There is one subtlety here. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the heat flow for a well-defined temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room - 70 degrees (90C / 20C).

As the coolant cools or the air heats up, the power of the section will decrease in proportion to the temperature delta: say, at 60C in the battery and 25C in the room, the section will give half the nominal power.

Tying heating devices

What fittings are needed to disconnect and adjust the batteries?

If you plan to only turn off the radiators (with excess heat or for repairs), install ball valves on both battery connections. They are durable, fail-safe and always tight when closed.

For throttling (patency control), it is customary to use needle throttles, or valves for radiators. Inside, these are typical screw valves with a metal valve.

If you want the patency of the liners to be regulated automatically, your choice is valves with thermal heads. After a rough adjustment, they will change their throughput depending on the air temperature in the room.

Wiring

How to distribute heating around the house?

The simplest and most fail-safe scheme is a single-pipe Leningrad, a filling ring around the perimeter of the house with heating devices connected in parallel to it. Its main drawback is the large temperature spread between the first and last radiators.

If the house has several heated floors, a two-pipe heating system is usually installed. It can be dead-end (when the coolant turns 180 degrees during the flow from the supply to the return) and passing (the direction of movement of the coolant is maintained).

The dead-end circuit needs mandatory balancing - limiting the patency of radiators closest to the boiler with chokes. Without balancing, the bulk of the coolant circulates through these radiators, and distant devices practically do not heat. In my memory, this at least once led to a serious accident - defrosting of the circuit in extreme cold.

A passing circuit (Tichelman's loop) forms several parallel circuits of the same length. In it, the temperature of the radiators is always approximately the same without balancing.

The dead-end two-pipe scheme is used in cases where any obstacle (high opening, load-bearing wall, etc.) does not allow the Tichelman loop to be looped.

Installation

How to solder polypropylene pipes yourself?

For this you will need:

Shaver (cleaning) to remove reinforcement from the soldering area;

The shaver simultaneously removes the outer chamfer on the pipe, simplifying the installation of the fitting.

Scissors - pipe cutter;
Soldering iron with nozzles of the appropriate diameter and a working temperature of 260 degrees.

The connection is made as follows:

The shaver is put on the pipe and makes several turns, removing the aluminum foil;

If it is left, the foil in contact with water will gradually break down. This will lead to stratification of the pipe and a drop in the strength of the connection.

The pipe is inserted into the socket of the nozzle heated to the operating temperature. At the same time, a fitting is put on the second side of the nozzle;
The melted parts are combined with a translational (without rotation) movement and are held motionless for several seconds. After the melted plastic seizes, you can proceed to the installation of the next connection.

Where to set the security group?

at the outlet of the boiler. It is there that the pressure begins to increase with insufficient patency of the filling or low circulation speed.

Where is the expansion tank located??

At any point in the circuit, but not closer than two filling diameters from the pump when installed before it and not closer than ten filling diameters when installed after the pump. Otherwise, the turbulences that occur during the rotation of the impeller will drastically reduce the resource of the tank membrane.

Can a gravity heating system be converted to forced circulation?

Quite: the pump can be placed in both closed and open circuits.

Usually, heating installation with the ability to work with both natural and forced circulation is performed as follows:

The filling diameter and configuration (slope, accelerating manifold, difference in height between the boiler and heaters) are made typical for a gravity system;
In front of the boiler, two outlets are welded parallel to the filling, between which a pump is connected;
A ball check valve is placed between the tie-ins.

When the pump is running, the valve activates and closes the bypass. The coolant circulates at high speed forcibly. As soon as the pump turns off due to power outages, the system automatically switches to natural circulation mode: the valve opens, and water flows freely through the bottling.

Instead of a check valve, a regular valve or ball valve is sometimes installed. In this case, the system has to be transferred to the natural circulation mode with your own hands.

Conclusion

Of course, in a small volume of material it is difficult to answer all questions related to autonomous heating. Additional information you will find in the video in this article. Feel free to leave your comments on the portal. Good luck, comrades!

How to make heating private. We do the correct installation of heating in the house with our own hands: the choice of schemes and an overview of components. Installation from the company "VIP heating"

Elements of the heating system

Shut-off valves

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

Heat consumption for ventilation

Solid fuel boilers

gas boilers

Electric boilers

Oil boilers

Schemes of heating systems for a private house

Heating system installation

Boiler connection

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

5 common editing mistakes

Choosing a coolant

Conclusion

What is home heating

What is burned in boilers

Video description

Coolant transfer devices

Varieties of batteries in shape and material

What heating systems are used according to the wiring method

Single pipe connection

Two-pipe connection

Beam heating distribution

Video description

Fluid circulation methods

Natural way of circulation

artificial circulation method

Calculation of the heating system

Video description

Mistakes during installation

Conclusion

Choosing a boiler for a heating system

Gas, solid fuel or electric?

Single loop and double loop?

This difficult choice - batteries or underfloor heating

Cast iron, steel or aluminum radiators?

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor

Heating schemes - one-pipe, two-pipe and collector

Scheme of a single-pipe heating system - economical, but inconvenient

Two-pipe scheme - ease of installation and ease of use

Collector scheme - in step with progress

Do-it-yourself heating installation

Piping and underfloor heating

Results

Prices for the installation of heating a private house

Go shopping

Boiler

Boiler piping

Pipes

Heating appliances

Tying heating devices

Wiring

Installation

Conclusion

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